Helmut Newton x Steven Klein: on the dark side, presented at Staley-Wise Gallery from March 19 through May 2, 2026, brings together the work of two photographers whose images redefine the visual language of fashion. Through a selection of striking photographs, the exhibition places the work of
Helmut Newton in dialogue with that of Steven Klein, revealing how both artists explore glamour, sexuality, power, and performance with fearless intensity. Their images move beyond the conventions of editorial photography, constructing cinematic scenes where elegance and provocation coexist.
Helmut Newton emerges as one of the most influential fashion photographers of the late twentieth century. Born in Berlin in 1920, he begins his career assisting the photographer Yva before leaving Germany as the political climate darkens in the late 1930s. After settling in Australia, Newton develops a distinctive photographic voice that eventually finds an international stage in fashion magazines such as Vogue. His images from the 1970s and 1980s challenge expectations of fashion imagery through bold compositions, dramatic lighting, and narratives that openly address themes of authority, desire, and theatricality.
Decades later, Steven Klein emerges as a major figure in contemporary image-making, continuing a similarly audacious approach while reflecting the evolving aesthetics of modern culture. Educated at the Rhode Island School of Design, Klein initially studies painting before turning fully toward photography in the 1990s. His work becomes widely recognized for its stylized visual storytelling and collaborations with leading figures in fashion, music, and cinema. Through editorial commissions and advertising campaigns, Klein constructs images that blend surreal narrative, psychological tension, and high-fashion spectacle.
Seen together, the photographs reveal a shared fascination with the theatrical potential of the camera. Models appear as protagonists within carefully staged environments where luxury, fantasy, and danger intertwine. Humor and irony frequently surface within these compositions, offsetting their darker undertones. By placing the work of Newton and Klein side by side, the exhibition highlights how fashion photography evolves across generations while maintaining a powerful capacity to challenge social conventions and expand the boundaries of visual storytelling.
Image:
Helmut Newton Woman examining man, Calvin Klein, American
VOGUE, Saint-Tropez, 1975 (© Helmut Newton Foundation)