Exclusive Interview with Luca Desienna and Laura Estelle Barmwoldt

For over seven years, Of Lilies and Remains has explored the depths of the goth and darkwave underground, unfolding in Leipzig—a city long associated with a vibrant and enduring subcultural scene. Moving between iconic gatherings such as Wave-Gotik-Treffen and more intimate moments on the fringes, the project offers a rare and immersive glimpse into a world often misunderstood, yet rich in expression and community.

Created by Luca Desienna in collaboration with Laura Estelle Barmwoldt, the work embraces a cinematic and deeply personal approach. Rather than documenting from a distance, it moves within the scene itself, capturing its atmosphere, its codes, and its quiet contradictions. The title Of Lilies and Remains hints at this duality—where beauty and darkness, fragility and strength coexist.

As the book prepares for its release, we spoke with both artists about the origins of the project, their process, and what it means to document a subculture that continues to evolve while remaining true to its spirit.

All About Photo: The book seems to be a portrait of a whole subculture. How did you come upon this, and what drew you to this specific group?

Luca: I’ve been into punk and post-punk since I was a teenager. The local club where I grew up, an underground spot called Vinile, was centered around post-punk and dark-wave every Saturday, drawing people from across northern Italy.

When I later moved to London, I started frequenting Slimelight, where alongside dark-wave I was introduced more deeply to industrial music.

Discovering Leipzig felt like finding a hidden home. I fell in love with both the festival and the city, and from day one I began documenting it.

I’ve always considered myself an outsider - a kind of beautiful misfit - so I’m drawn to places where the alternative lives and breathes.

Laura: I have been into the goth scene since my teenage years and fell in love with the nonconformity to societal expectations and the endless possibilities for creative expression, where many just see black clothes and frowns. For me, apart from my involvement, it remains the most gentle, caring, and non-discriminatory subculture I’ve encountered. There are so many different forms of expression, merging into punk, metal, or anime. The duality of fragility and confidence, loud silence, or wild solemnness has always fascinated me.




Did you have a plan in mind from the beginning, or what was your approach to the book?

Luca: I personally didn’t have a plan from the beginning. I often feel that too much planning can kill creativity, so I allowed myself to move freely through the city, its venues and locations, in a more instinctive, almost anarchic way. That’s how I experienced it - and it felt like the most honest approach for this kind of project. As for the book itself, the process was more structured. We explored different ideas and directions over time, gradually shaping it until we found the form that felt right.

Laura: With everything I do, I always try to capture the essence of a person more so than an impressive appearance. My approach varied from following the flow of the festival to capturing specific moments, like leaving a party when the sun comes up; something I think we can all relate to.

Did you run into any difficulties, obstacles, or surprises while shooting?

Luca: While shooting? No, not really, just maybe the batteries! Those turned out to never be enough! So we’ll pack plenty now before reaching Leipzig.

Laura: Much less than expected. I always respect a “no” and am generally not invasive in my approach, but I think sharing the experience and love for this special event, rather than looking at it as shock value or a human zoo, changes the reactions we get.

What made you two decide to collaborate on this, and how did that elevate the book?

Laura: Luca started the project two years before me, and when we met and went shooting together, the plan grew to collaborate on a book about it as well, which I am elated about.

Luca: Laura is a great photographer and an ideal partner in crime while shooting in these locations - I enjoy shooting beside her. When we’re together, nobody has the guts to refuse us a shot! And that’s just great! Editing and the book layout sequencing are a different step - this requires more patience than if I were doing it on my own. But that’s pretty normal - teamwork can be a bitch! But overall everything has been flowing well and smoothly.


Is there a specific reason to keep it in black and white?

Luca: The main “color” of this scene is black. So color felt unnecessary - black and white captures its essence more honestly and strips everything down to mood and form.

Laura: It is absolutely my favorite type of photography because it always conveys a timeless feel, and the possibilities to paint with contrast and light never cease to amaze me. I also think it is fitting for the goth scene and gives the work a cohesive feel, as it incorporates the surrounding city and Lipsonians nicely.

Can you elaborate on the medium used and the intention behind it?

Luca: We shot only on film - a range from Tri-X to Fomapan. All the films were manually developed by us, which is an important part of the process.

Laura: I exclusively photograph with analogue cameras and am in love with the Ricoh GR1V. The preciousness of fewer shots compared to digital, with no instant reveal or overly digitized images, feel very “real” and intimate to me. Developing all films together makes it even more personal.

Did you notice any development or change in the scene throughout the years?

Luca: Yes, there are finally some youngsters joining in and that’s great! Musically, the scene also feels less rigid than it used to be. For example, one of the main acts at WGT this year is Kim Wilde, which says a lot about that openness. And also fewer drugs - well, heavy drugs - which I’m very happy about. I’d say there was a more self-destructive edge in parts of the 90s scene.

Laura: Looks-wise, I’ve noticed an increase in a tribal aesthetic, as well as more Japanese manga influences. Demographically, I’ve observed that whole families, sometimes even three generations, participate, which is awesome. I feel that, at its core, the scene remains reassuringly nostalgic.

Is there a specific moment, person, or shot that stuck with you?

Luca: Yes, shooting Shortparis front stage at Eventpalast was simply majestic.

The picnic is also always a great moment to photograph, very free, very alive.

I also clearly remember a shot I missed: I had run out of film and had to go back to a friend’s car. It was midday on Sunday, on a central street in Leipzig, a woman was walking a man, probably her husband, on a leash. He was wearing a G-string and stilettos. Absolutely priceless.

Laura: There was this lady standing by the side of the dance floor who seemed quite shy and reserved. I approached her and asked about her jacket. She told me she makes everything she wears herself. As she spoke about her creations, she really blossomed during our conversation. She was a little hesitant at first to have her photo taken, but it turned out beautifully. I really enjoy seeing that shift in confidence when people feel seen and appreciated exactly for who they want to be.



Why did you choose the title “LILLIES”?

Luca: From the Bauhaus song: Of Lillies and Remains.

Laura: Yes, lilies are also classic funeral flowers, and I think that’s a lovely metaphor for the goth community.

Where will it be available?

Luca: It will be published by Gomma Labs via Gomma Books.

Laura: You will be able to purchase it here: https://www.gomma.store

Are you planning other projects related to this?

Laura: As this is an ongoing series, we hope to release a Volume 2, as this project is very dear to our hearts and there is just so much to capture at this one-of-a-kind gathering.

Luca: Yes, sure. We’ve also been doing a long-term project on the bohemian neighborhood of Cabanyal.