Alia Ali

December 8 - January 26, 2026

This December, Gilman Contemporary is proud to present the work of Alia Ali, a photographer and installation artist whose practice investigates migration, the body, and cultural dichotomies through the combined languages of photography and textile. With roots in Yemen, Bosnia, and the United States Ali is herself a product of transnationalism. Her work is inspired by the ways movement and displacement shape identity. In each portrait, the figure is obscured beneath carefully draped textiles that envelop the body. These photographs are then displayed in handmade frames upholstered with complementary fabrics, extending the visual language beyond the image and creating a heightened sense of three-dimensionality. The result is a dynamic interplay between abstraction and portraiture.

This introductory exhibition brings together works from several of Ali’s series, including the richly embroidered blues and golds of Jade, the psychedelic swirls of Warp, and the tailored fashion sensibilities of the Liberty series. Each piece speaks to the intersection of diverse identities and cultural histories that are held in both body and cloth. Ali works with artisans whose textiles honor the traditions and histories embedded within each woven piece of cloth.

Blink © Alia Ali, Courtesy Gilman Contemporary

Ikat Ruby © Alia Ali, Courtesy Gilman Contemporary

Red Blossom © Alia Ali, Courtesy Gilman Contemporary

Statement by Alia Ali
Textile has been a constant in my practice, and I have recently begun making my own patterns and prints. I believe that textile is significant to all of us. We are born into it, we sleep in it, we eat on it, we define ourselves by it, we shield ourselves with it, and eventually, we die in it. While it unites us, it also divides us physically and symbolically. In my work, textiles represent the fabricated barriers in society that can both segregate and connect us. What side of the fabric are we on? Can we exist on both sides at once? Ultimately, do we exclude others from the fear of being excluded ourselves? Is this exclusion a form of self preservation, motivated by primitive fears of social isolation and our search for security? Or does exclusion represent a metamorphosis of the outcast into the villain? What do we fear discovering beneath the cloth?

Alia Studio © Alia Ali, Courtesy Gilman Contemporary

About Alia Ali
Alia Ali (b. 1985, Austria) is a Yemeni-Bosnian-US multi-media artist whose work explores cultural binaries and confronts conflicted notions surrounding gender, politics, media, and citizenship. Working between language, photography, sculpture, video, and installation, Alia’s work addresses the politicization of the body, histories of colonization, imperialism, sexism, and racism through projects that take pattern as their primary motif.

Textile, in particular, has been a constant in the artist's practice. Her strong belief that textile is significant to all of us, reminds us that we are born into it, we sleep in it, we eat on it, we define ourselves by it, we shield ourselves with it, and eventually, we die in it. While it unites us, it also divides us physically and symbolically. Her work broadens into immersive installations utilizing light and pattern to move past language and offer an expansive, experiential understanding of self, culture, and nation.

Alia’s practice expands into discourses of Yemeni Futurism where she offers counter-narratives to appropriation, violence and disregard. Her research calls upon oral histories to reframe nostalgic pasts and to confront dystopian realities of the present in order to carve out spaces for radically imagined futures.

Alia Ali is a graduate of Wellesley College (Political Sciences and Studio Art), the California Institute of the Arts (Photography and Media), and is a NIKON Global Ambassador. Her work has integrated the permanent collections of The British Museum, Museum of Contemporary Photography Chicago (MoCP), New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA), and Princeton University, among others. Her monument al-Falak was funded by the Andrew Mellon Foundation and now sits at the Arab American National Museum. Her work has been featured in publications including The New York Times, Vogue, Architectural Digest, and the Financial Times.

Alia Ali's works and lives in and between Morocco and India. She is a Jameel Fellow with the Victoria & Albert Museum in London.
www.alia-ali.com
@alia.ali.art

Anastasia Samoylova: Atlantic Coast

By Anastasia Samoylova

Publisher : Aperture and the Norton Museum of Art

2025 | 144 pages

Anastasia Samoylova: Atlantic Coast opens a vast, quietly unsettling portrait of the American East Coast — one in which nostalgia, dislocation and transformation are sewn into the landscape itself. In this new monograph, Samoylova retraces the route pioneered by Berenice Abbott in 1954, journeying from Florida to Maine to revisit the places Abbott once documented, and to observe what has become of them decades later. Her images — in vivid color and stark black and white — reveal the tension between myth and reality, between promises of progress and the traces of decay or displacement.

Where once small towns and coastal communities had a certain stillness, Samoylova finds change carved into facades and roadside signs, into suburban sprawl and shuttered shopfronts. She frames these scenes with a photographer’s patience and a poet’s sensitivity — capturing abandoned diners, empty motels, decaying houses, ghostly intersections. At the same time, there is stubborn life: occasional portraits of people, wildlife, reminders that behind every sign of decline, someone, something endures.

Her book does not simply document physical places. It traces the shifting contours of identity, belonging and memory in a nation where the open road has long symbolized freedom — and where that ideal has become tangled with consumerism, environmental degradation, and socio-economic upheaval. Through Atlantic Coast, Samoylova asks whether the “American Dream” remains intact, or if it has fractured along with the towns her car passes through.

Reading this volume is to experience a slow, attentive journey — as a witness, as a traveller, as someone invited to reconsider what America has become. Her photographs linger, subtly unsettling the viewer’s assumptions about beauty, progress and decline. In its silence and restraint, the book whispers that memory, identity and place are fragile — and that every road carries stories worth listening to.

Coreen Simpson: A Monograph

By Coreen Simpson

Publisher : Aperture

2025 | 224 pages

Coreen Simpson: A Monograph is the first major book dedicated to the influential photographer and jewelry designer whose career spans more than fifty years. As the second volume in the Vision & Justice Book Series—a groundbreaking initiative created by Dr. Sarah Lewis and coedited with Drs. Leigh Raiford and Deborah Willis—the monograph celebrates Simpson’s enduring impact on visual culture.

Simpson began her career as a journalist before turning to photography, capturing the richness of Black life, fashion, and identity. Her portraits of icons such as Grace Jones, Muhammad Ali, and Toni Morrison, as well as her iconic B-Boys series from the 1980s, showcase her eye for style, pride, and self-expression. The book also features her later work with collage and overpainting, alongside the story of her celebrated jewelry line, including the iconic Black Cameo worn by Rosa Parks and Rihanna.

Featuring original essays by leading voices such as Bridget R. Cooks, Rujeko Hockley, Awol Erizku, and Doreen St. Félix, as well as an in-depth interview by Deborah Willis, Coreen Simpson: A Monograph offers a multifaceted portrait of an artist whose work continues to shape the worlds of photography, fashion, and Black cultural history.

Daido Moriyama: Quartet

By Daido Moriyama

Publisher : Getty Publications

2025 | 440 pages

Explore the groundbreaking early work of Daido Moriyama, one of Japan’s most radical photographers, with this collectible, slipcased photobook.

Daido Moriyama (b. 1938) is one of Japan’s most renowned and prolific photographers. His diverse projects often focus on urban landscapes, exploring light and shadow, and form and abstraction. Using a handheld camera and high-contrast black-and-white film, Moriyama captures Tokyo’s chaotic streets and clandestine underbelly, revealing the darkness and strangeness beneath the surface.

Daido Moriyama: Quartet is a vital anthology of the four seminal photobooks that form the foundation of Moriyama’s career as a photographer: Japan: A Photo Theater, A Hunter, Farewell Photography, and Light and Shadow. Spanning the fifteen years during which he honed his techniques and unveiled his distinctive vision, these photobooks were originally released as limited editions in Japan and represent some of the most daring ventures in photographic publishing history. Edited by Mark Holborn, this compilation includes excerpts from Moriyama’s diaries, journals, and memoranda, offering intimate glimpses into the core of his creative process. Presented in a slipcase, this volume is essential for all Moriyama fans and anyone passionate about photography and visual culture.

All About Daido Moriyama

Critical Photojournalism: Contemporary Ethics and Practices

By Tara Pixley, Judy Walgren

Publisher : ‎ Routledge

2025 | 226 pages

An essential introduction to the complexities of visual representation, this book offers a critical new framework for understanding and practicing photojournalism in a global digital context.

Critical Photojournalism guides readers through a variety of ethical, technical and business skills, plus the mental health, self-care and safety considerations necessary to thrive in the field. Drawing on their extensive industry and teaching experience, the authors provide real-world advice on how to navigate the demands of the profession while addressing the impact that photojournalism has on society and ways that photojournalists can mitigate harm. Consideration is given to understanding and disrupting implicit bias and power structures in newsrooms, as well as issues around access, working in breaking news environments and balancing informed consent with varying media laws around the world. In accessible language, this book highlights the importance of collaboration and community engagement in contemporary photojournalism and encourages students to adopt a decolonial approach to their work. Readers will learn to balance the needs for accuracy and thoughtfulness with the priorities of a global, social-media-engaged audience.

This is a key textbook for those seeking a nuanced introduction to visual journalism and/or a fresh approach to their craft. This book is supported by a website which can be accessed at www.criticalphotojournalism.com. The website includes a full-length bonus chapter on video and photojournalism, interviews with professional visual journalists, further tips and tools, and a glossary of key terms.

Alia Ali

December 8 - January 26, 2026

More information about the exhibition

Selected Books